The poinsettia is a traditional holiday plant that was brought to the United States by the U.S. Minister of Mexico in 1835. He returned to South Carolina with cuttings of this beautiful Mexican wildflower. Much plant breeding has produced the superior plants we grow today.
Poinsettia Care
Place in bright (natural or artificial).
Avoid cold drafts or excessive heat from television sets, radiators, or heating ducts.
Water thoroughly but allow excess water to drain off. They do not like wet feet. Do not allow to completely dry out.
Temperature should not exceed 70 degrees F. Cooler temperatures are much better—low can be 55 degrees F.
Are Poinsettias Poisonous?
Contrary to popular belief, no part of the poinsettia is poisonous, but poinsettias are for ornamental use only!
Poinsettias can be used as cut flowers.
Place 6-8” long stem into boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes. Then place the stem into cool water.
Make final cut in area treated.
The boiling water keeps the latex in the stem from hardening and blocking the stem from taking up water. Holding the stem over a flame may be used in place of hot water, but it is less successful.
Problems that may Concern the Homeowner
Diseases
Botrytis - Grey mold on leaves
Prevention - Keep foliage dry
Cure - Benomyl
Insects
Mealy bugs - Malathion; leave sticky residue
Whitefly - Whitefly spray; larva eats on plant
Fungus Gnats - Malathion - larva eats on roots
*Spider Mitesn - Malathion
*Softscale - Malathion
*Not a Serious Problem
Physiological Problems
Wilting, burned foliage and stems is a result of salt build-up from fertilizer.
You can help prevent this from happening by watering from the top of the container.
Leaf drop, root rot, over fertilizing, too low of light & water stress is a result of the soil being too dry.
Deficient Symptoms
Nitrogen-
Poor rooting, leaf drop, delayed flowering, lack of vigor, yellow-green color of leaves.
Phosphorous-
Stunted growth.
Potassium-
Speckling of leaves, marginal burn if severe, and defoliation prior to flowering.
Step-By-Step to
Keeping a Poinsettia
After marveling at tree-size poinsettias near Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, I’ve come to a greater appreciation of our traditional holiday plant. Although it’s unlikely that our potted poinsettias will ever achieve the grandeur of those grown outdoors in the subtropics, with a little care they can become long-lasting houseplants, living to bloom again during future holiday seasons.
As with any houseplant, choosing a healthy specimen makes subsequent care much easier. Look for a well-proportioned, compact plant with dense, vigorous, dark-green foliage on strong, stiff stems. The bracts, or colored, petal like leaves that surround the small, yellowish true flowers, should be well developed and fully colored to assure lasting color for the holiday season.
Chilly winds or temperatures below 50 degrees F will severely shock a poinsettia, causing it to drop its leaves, so protect your plant on the way home by placing it in a large shopping bag or a sleeve of paper or plastic.
Care During the Holidays
Place your poinsettia near a sunny window where it will receive about six hours of bright light each day. Avoid cold, drafty spots and those with hot afternoon sun and temperatures much above 70 degrees, since too much heat makes the bracts fade. Also keep the plants away from the drying heat of a furnace or fireplace.
Like most other houseplants, poinsettias do best in moist but not soggy soil. When the soil surface feels dry, water until moisture begins to seep through the drain holes. Discard any excess water that collects in the saucer, because a plant left sitting in water may develop root rot, which can be fatal.
Prune
As the bracts begin to fade, usually in late March or April, cut back the stem (or stems) so that the plant is about 8” tall. This pruning helps keep the plant from becoming overly tall and leggy. You might want to wear rubber gloves during this process, since the milky sap that oozes from the cut stems can irritate sensitive skin.
Summer Care
In early June, when new growth is well underway, gently transplant the poinsettia into a pot an inch or two larger than the original one. Water the plant thoroughly and return it to its sunny window, or move it outside to a warm, sunny spot sheltered from drying winds.
Continue to water and fertilize regularly over the summer. It’s a good idea to pinch the new growth back by an inch or two in July to keep the plant compact. Pinch again in late August if growth is vigorous. If the plant spends the summer outdoors, be sure to bring it back inside before the cool nights of autumn arrive.
Sometimes a poinsettia attracts insect pests—whiteflies are a particular threat. Spray with an insecticide soap as soon as your spot any signs of trouble, repeating the treatment as needed.
Re-flowering
Poinsettias are photoperiod plants, setting flower buds as the nights become longer. But the artificial lights in our homes upset this natural cycle. So, starting in mid-to late September, you will have to intervene to make sure your poinsettias get around 14 continuous hours of darkness each night. This can be accomplished either by covering the plant with a cardboard box or a black plastic garbage bag, or by placing it in a dark closet. Take care that the poinsettia doesn’t get too cold during these long nights—temperatures should stay between 60 and 70 degrees.
Uncover or retrieve the plant each morning and return it to a sunny window. Water every few days as needed, and fertilize as before. Continue to provide this long-night, short-day regimen for eight to ten weeks, or until small bracts begin to show fall color. At that point, you can ring the plant back into normal household lighting fulltime. The bracts will mature and develop, providing a colorful holiday decoration once again.
